“Let’s Tumble!”

“No more expensive and destructive ammoniated chemicals, no more flash rust, no more dangerous machine buffing!”

What is tumbling? 

 

This is an alternate cleaning method for a variety of items.  Most notably jewelers use this method to finish stones.  The Swiss have been using tumblers for years to offer a desired high luster finish on brass.  The finish depends upon the media used, e.g. ceramic, plastic, steel, organic pellets (crushed walnut shells, corncobs). 

 

Why tumble? 

 

I’ve sought for a means of cleaning movements as well as minimizing the dangers of machine buffing clock parts.    

I do NOT tumble every clock that comes to the shop for repair.  This service is an option for the customer.  In general, a regular cleaning is:  degreasing and ultrasonic rinse in naphtha, machining, reassembly, oiling and test.  Tumbling yields a finished product that is almost as “pretty” as from machine buffing, and far superior to the finish from use of ammoniated cleaners.  

Tumbling removes oxidation (patina) from the brass plates and components of clock movements.  Tumbling is NOT conservation.  Every machine step removes material on the atomic level.  Eventually the materials will thin to a degree that renders the clock inoperable. 

Thus I tumble clock parts, quite safely and effortlessly, in a commercial machine designed for this purpose. 

Presoak the movement/parts in used #3 watch rinse solution, odorless mineral spirits, kerosene or naphtha to degrease.  Then rinse in fresh naphtha and air dry.*1

The media I’ve found to be effective and safe is 20% stainless steel Jeweler’s Mix (rods, cones, spheres no larger than 3 mm), 20% plastic pellets, 60% crushed walnut shells, by volume.  To this mixture, I use a cheese grater to add 1/4 teaspoon of paraffin wax (canning wax) per one-gallon volume.    I tumble the plates and gears together with NO damage to either.  It is important to put screws in any threaded hole that is not cut all the way through, e.g. pillar posts.  For this reason alone, you might prefer to tumble with the plates together, space permitting.  The media and parts to be tumbled should fill the tumbler container roughly 90%.  This eliminates any damage to the items being tumbled.  The drum rotates approximately 27 rpm, so the action is very gentle.

Why not use water and regular ammoniated clock cleaning solution?  I’m concerned about the possibility of permanent damage to brass and steel that are caused by specific cleaning reagents.  Ammonia (and any ammonia derivative) causes permanent and irreversible damage to stressed brass components of clock movement.  I don’t want to make things worse.  (See British Horological Journal Article, “Conservation of Functional Horological Objects” & SCC article). 

Regarding aqueous tumbling, I’ve tried everything from common hand soap, Ivory Flakes, soap on a rope, Murphy’s Oil Soap (contains oxalic acid), dishwasher shavings.

The tumbler is a GENTLE massage by the tumbling media that brings up a very nice luster finish on all pieces.   Unthread all screw fasteners and put through the rinse.  Any time you have two like or dissimilar metals in contact with each other, you risk a grungy reaction at the interface. 

Rinse with de-ionized water, apply a corrosion inhibitor like Polytect 2CB rinse, then water rinse again, blow dry with compressed air, then a warm dry in your dryer.  Unless one uses a petroleum rinse or a corrosion inhibitor such as Polytect 2CB, then you’ll be looking at flash rust.  Not only is flash rust very distasteful, it indicates the presence of water at the interface between two joining pieces, whether steel on steel or steel on brass.  This is not acceptable.  Aerobic or anaerobic corrosion will cause an eventual failure in such joints.

Still, some may have concern about a battery reaction, which occurs between dissimilar metals, e.g. steel and brass, in the presence of water moisture.   (Corrosion Mechanism / Types of Corrosion).  If you do, then dry tumbling is your route.

Dry tumbling produces a very nice luster finish and NO FLASH RUST!  It simply takes much longer.  Be sure all lacquer has first been removed.

Typically I tumble the movement overnight for around 8 hours.  The final step is to pick out any embedded walnut shell pieces from lantern pinions and rinse the parts in the ultrasonic using fresh naphtha.

 

*1 Disposal of spent petroleum distillates can become a problem.  I save the old solvents, let them settle, and then filter back what I can re-use.  When it gets too bad, I filter it into convenient one-gallon jugs and put it into my home heating fuel tank.  I’ve been doing this for years without any problems.  My home heating tank fuel passes through three filters before it goes through the furnace nozzle.  Alternately you could transport it to a local shop that uses waste oil in their furnace.

I enjoy the results of both methods.  The outcome is virtually identical.  I’ve not yet discovered a liquid tumbling method using solvents, since the rubber liners of tumbling drums react adversely to the presence of solvents, e.g. mineral spirits, naphtha, alcohol.  The rubber will stretch and distort.

See the pictures below in Step 3 and judge for yourself (dry method illustrated).

Pessimists?  Want to read about my failures?  Scroll down past the pictures.

To contact us by email, click here.

Feedback questions?  Scroll down past the pictures.

A special “Thank You” to Dean of “Once Upon A Time” in Staunton, VA for having introduced me to this wonderful world of tumbling clock parts.  It works!

Ern Grover, Father & Son Precision Time, 3523 Port Republic Road, Harrisonburg, VA 22801  (540) 478-3925 (a telephone call is always welcome except on Sunday)

 

(DRY TUMBLE)  Sessions movement as received….cruddy as you’d expect

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Step 2:  overnight soak in naphtha in ultrasonic (switch off) followed by 15 minutes with ultrasonic action.  Use Nytek gloves while coming in contact with any hydrocarbon and keep the area well ventilated with this flammable liquid. 

This step serves to degrease the movement so as not to contaminate the tumbling media.  At this point, repairs are made to the movement… bushings, etc.

 

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Finished Product!

Step3 pictures:  tumbled for 8 hours in a dry mixture of stainless steel Jeweler’s mix (rods, cones, spheres), crushed walnut shells and a “dash” of grated canning wax.  After picking out the tiny fragments of walnut shells from the lantern pinions, everything goes into the ultrasonic for a rinse in naphtha for maybe two or three minutes.  Lastly, the parts are cool-air dried and wiped down with lint free towels.  Naphtha is preferred as the final rinse so the very light wax coating won’t rinse away.  Lastly, peg out each bearing, reassemble, oil and test. 

 

 

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Let’s hear about the failures

(Note:  I used a modern junker movement in my experiment, having first stripped off the lacquer.)

Yup, there have been some.  When I first got my tumbler, I used only crushed walnut shells.  That wasn’t enough.  It took nearly three days to achieve a finish, and then, the residue on the parts had to be cleaned off. 

Next I thought I’d add some common liquid soap and water.  Wrong!  This became watery slurry of the crushed shells and left the brass a very deep brown.  Only Scotchbrite would take off the brown finish.

Then I spoke with Jim Moss about the situation.  He advised against anything with water because of the battery reaction (leading to corrosion) between brass and steel.  Eliminating the water was a “no brainer”.

Next I tried walnut shells and chalk.  I remembered that Jim Moss advised that he made a paste of chalk and Stoddard’s solution to hand polish clock parts.  This change in media produced a rather pleasing effect, but the tumbling time was still in “days”, not “hours”.  The crud residue was minimal, but there was still finish work to be done.

Then I introduced stainless steel Jeweler’s mix to the crushed walnut shells, and omitted the chalk.  The stainless steel mix accelerated the process a bit, but I still had to clean off the parts by hand.  The crushed walnut shells would still leave an undesirable crud on the parts.

Finally I took a chunk of common canning wax compound, grated a quarter teaspoon into the media of 20% stainless steel Jeweler’s mix and 80% walnut shells.  The pictures below in Step 3 show the results after 8 hours.

True, this isn’t the fastest way to polish and clean, but it works all by itself overnight with beautiful results.  There are no “stretched” holes from buffing, the edges of the movement remain sharp, and the parts are clean.

And a sad discovery, don’t put distillates in a rubber lined tumbler drum.  The rubber gets soft and changes shape.  I ruined the two tumbler drums in my Thumler A-R2 tumbler.  Once I had liquid tight lids; now I have leakers.  They work fine for dry media, however.  (Note:  since my last revision, the containers have nearly returned to original shape and size.  I wouldn’t, however, suggest using spirits of any sort with these rubber barrels.)

I also have the new Model B Thumler, which has a single 15-pound tumbling drum Large steel hexagon barrel with removable rubber lining for long, efficient and quiet operation.   Thumler and Grobet sell the tumbler; the unit is marked “Grobet”, so I’ve no clue who makes it.

    • Interior measurements: 8" deep, hex shaped barrel with six panels, each 3.75" wide. Diameter measures 6.37" between opposite panels, 7.5" between opposite panel corners.
    • Hexagonal shape helps the contents turn in this large diameter barrel.

Sources of machines and tumbling media are indicated below.

And now for some feedback:

Hi Ern,
This is Greg (from Clocksmiths).  I've been meaning to contact you about your "tumbling experiences.”

The photos you posted look unreal!  I have a friend in Rochester, NY who buffs his movements.  I really took to it.  Although I realize that I'm about the only person who will see these movements, it’s the kind of job that I would like to produce.

At this moment, I pre-clean, clean in an ultrasonic, rinse, rinse and dry, buff.  After the first few movements however, I find the cleaning solution doesn't work as well.  This way of cleaning is very expensive, smelly and noisy...buzzing, drying and of course two vent fans running.  And then taking the movement to a different room for buffing.  Although I get a nice finish, your way looks a lot less stressful.

Tumbling: 
1. What's the noise level?  Seems like it would be fairly high.

Noise can be a problem.  Being deaf helps.  However, I minimize the noise by putting the entire machine inside a large Rubbermaid storage container (22 gallon size).  The tumbler unit rests upon a piece of carpet remnant, and the bin rests upon a piece of carpet remnant.  In addition, the unit runs out on my back deck.  Now, I generally run the tumbler at night after I shut down the shop, so that’s also a possibility for you.


2.  Does this method remove stains (oil, grease, fingerprints)? 

After the overnight soak and ultrasonic rinse, there is virtually no dirt or oil present on the job.  However, the walnut shells will absorb any residue.  The tumbling action will remove the patina, fingerprints, rust and leave behind a very thin, protective layer of wax from the grated buffing agent you introduce when charging the media mix.


3.  Do you need to "peg" the pivot holes?

Yes, although, there is so very little residue that comes out.  I always do it “just in case”.  Besides, I don’t want the oil and wax residue to mix and cause a sludge.


4.  How fragile of a movement can you do (French)?

Since my last writing, I’ve done several movements among which were a Smith Westminster tall case movement, several American common time and strike movements, a French crystal regulator, two anniversary clocks.  I haven’t put gears and plates together yet, though I might try.  Since I charge the tumbler drum to about 95% media mix, there is very little opportunity for the parts to “free-fall”, moreover, when it’s running, it sounds like a small avalanche.  The parts slide through the media rather than falling.  Thus, it will take longer to tumble using so much mix.    I do not, however, run the risk of possible fracture of count racks (the index tail) or very long and hardened strike levers.


5.  The naphtha rinse...isn't that very aromatic?  As I remember doesn't that also evaporate quickly?

Yes, it’s very aromatic.  Think of gasoline.  Also very flammable.  It does the job nicely.  Caution around rubber and plastic.  I’ve always removed hammer heads, for example, when they have plastic tip inserts.  Leather is unaffected by the tumbling action.


6.  You stated that you only clean certain movements this way.  May I ask the reason?

It looks like anything can be tumbled.  I don’t tumble clock parts except with the request of the customer.  Tumbling is not a necessary repair step.  It is certainly not CONSERVATION.  Leaving the patina (oxide) on each piece means that oxidation is stopped.  The piece is stable.  If we buff off, tumble off, chemically clean off the patina each time, eventually there will be no movement to clean.  Any removal of oxide is actually thinning the plates and components, however miniscule.

Next I plan to tumble a bezel in the tumbler, by itself.  First it will be without glass, then I’ll try one with glass.


7.  Rust on post, etc.  do you use a different tumbling medium for that?

Nope, rust, corrosion, fingerprints, blotches… they all disappear in the ONE media mix.  I should note that stainless steel Jeweler’s Mix is rather expensive, on the order of around $12 a pound, however, ordinary and cheaper steel mix can be substituted if you’re not using a water based cleaner in your process. 

I appreciate your time on this, sorry to be asking so many questions.  Kind of thinking on "paper".

Thanks
Greg

You’re welcome, Greg.

8.       Here’s a tip from Dean Sarnelle of Once Upon A Time of Staunton, VA.  Dean introduced me to tumbling.

Put the wheels on a wire through any holes that media might get stuck in.  It is also easy to pull out of the tumbler with all the wheels at one time.  I have used the same carbon steel for 17 years now.

Dean

Addendum:  Since my last writing, I purchased a Lortone two drum tumbler at a local tag sale.  Though I had to clean it up, oil the motor and rollers, it works like a champ.  It will be great for small parts.  Up to this point I hadn’t tried plastic media.  With this purchase ($6.00), I also got about 10 pounds of plastic pellets.  So I dumped these pellets in with the stainless steel Jeweler’s Mix, crushed walnut shells and buffing compound, and I love the results.  Most notably, the noise level dropped.  I think, moreover, the plastic pellets acted positively as a sound dampener as well as a good polishing media.  Awesome.

Commercial Sources:

The Rock Shed good source for tumblers and parts for tumblers.  If you’re into rocks, he’s got the stuff.  Honest seller; he even refunded a postal overcharge.

Findingking.com (ß click link) is a first class supplier.  His goods are offered on Ebay, which is where I got a fantastic deal on the Thumler Model B large capacity machine.  You can also order tumbling media, and a multitude of shop supplies and equipment directly from his web site.  His Ebay ID is findingking@fastq.com . 

Ebay – a great place to pick up new tumblers

    Thumler Machines

     Lortone Machines

     Tumbling Media (a reasonable substitute would be a few pounds of 4 penny finish nails 1-1/4” long available by the pound --- cheap, as well as #4, #6 and #8 flat washers.  They’re on Ebay, cheap)

Hobby Warehouse http://www.hobby-warehouse.com/thtumobrotu.html (current price $137.00 … a very good price)

Grobet USA http://www.grobetusa.com/ (no online catalogue)

Kingsley North http://www.kingsleynorth.com/

Kramer Industries http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/

4 Facets http://www.4facets.com/index.html

MSC Direct http://www1.mscdirect.com/eCommerce/NavigationServlet?ta=Y&N=12100017